Ohui review no slander on wines

by Hugh Wood, Hamilton Press

A few weeks ago I reported on Ohui Vineyard, the small, new vineyard in the Coromandel at Opoutere Beach. One comment I made on the two wines tasted seems to have been misconstrued, so perhaps some explanation is called for.

I stated that neither wine was a "blockbuster" and this has been taken as a criticism. Far from it. Blockbuster wines can be big, bold and beautiful statements of the winemaker’s art, but equally they can be loud, crude and unbalanced statements of a winemaker’s intepitude. In the case of the two aforementioned wines, they were nicely made, balanced wines, ideal for the sorts of food likely to be consumed around the Coromandel during holiday months, but quite capable of holding their own around the dining tables of the discerning.

Now to the other two wines. Ohui Merlot 2005 has good colour and medium density. Typically merlot, the nose is of plums with a little char from the oak. The palate is soft and again quite plummy with overtones of char and coffee. The tannins are soft and mild and the finish is quite smooth. A wine probably at its best now, but should last another season.

Ohui Reserve Syrah 2004 has good colour and like most New Zealand syrahs is closer in style to France than Australia. Dark red fruits, cigar box and a little spice dominate the nose and the palate is full and rich with good spicy fruit flavours. Mildly tannic and satisfying finish. A wine that has developed well, and should cope with more summers.

Have you visited Villa Maria’s flagship Auckland headquarters and winery yet? It comes to mind because I visited it twice in three days. First, we had friends from America in Auckland for a one night stop-over, and the winery quite literally a five-minute drive from Auckland Airport, was the ideal place to end a day’s sightseeing. Second, the Auckland Philharmonia had a fundrasing concert there.

The winery is set in an old volcanic basin that was nothing more than a wasteland a few years ago. Now the wnery buildings look out on to a large lawn and a small lake and is surrounded by remarkably mature-looking trees and vines, mainly Gewurztraminer, which seems to thrive on the volcanic ash soil.

There is an excellent cellar door facility and platter lunches are available. There are public tours of the winery in the mornings and afternoons.

The best thing about the place for me, is that while this is a large and successful enterprise, being the biggest privately owned winemaker in New Zealand with a state-of-the-art winery, there is a relaxed and friendly atmosphere about the place. And if you do one of the winery tours, there is a pretty good chance that you will get to meet founder and owner George Fistonich himself. To get there, turn in to Montgomerie Rd, wade through all the industrial stuff and the entrance is on the left.

Vintage 2007 is on track and picking is likely to start in the first week in March.

Early indications are that the cooler last months of 2006 may have reduced flowering and therefore fruit volumes, but the recent hot weather should ensure pretty good quality. Hailstorms and sundry catastrophic events notwithstanding.

HUGH WOOD is a Hamilton wine writer and educator. If you have any queries or comments about wine, contact Hamilton Press, or phone Hugh on 856-6822, or email hugh.wood@xtra.co.nz.